Embroidery Designs, software, machines

9:23 PM | Labels: Knitting

9:23 PM | Labels: Knitting

9:22 PM | Labels: Knitting

9:21 PM | Labels: Knitting

In this brief article we aim to just give a basic understanding of knitting needles, their sizing and what you need to look out for.

Size IS important................

Knitting needles come in different sizes. It is important to know the size of your knitting needles because their size is related to the size of your stitches and, implicitly, to the appearance of the finished work.

Knitting needles are given different numbers according to their measure. Do not think of their length! It is important how big round the needles are. However, these numbers can differ from one country to another. For example, a knitting needle of 3.75 mm is number 5 in American measurement and number 9 in British measurement, or you may see on the bag of the knitting needles you buy it is simply written as a 3.75 mm needle.

Notice that the American measurement has low numbers for needles with smaller diameters , and the numbers can go up to 50 for a larger diameter like 25 mm, while the British measurement has high numbers for low diameters and the numbers decrease when it comes to high diameters like, for example, 000 for knitting needles of 10 mm , Therefore, you need to look up a knitting needle conversion chart to ensure you end up with the correct needle size.

To confuse you still further if you have a 4.5 mm knitting needle, in that case the size number coincides, with both countries calling it size 7.

Understanding Guage ............

In knitting, there is the concept of gauge and it means the number of stitches in a given length. This concept is related to the pattern you have and, if in your pattern it says there are supposed to be , for example, 5 stitches to an inch and you can make only 3, than you should and need to change the size of your knitting needles. Each pattern requires that you knit a certain number of stitches using a particular yarn and a specified needle.

However, it is not necessary to stick to the yarn or the needles specified in the pattern, but it is important to get the correct number of stitches per inch in order to have the right size, length and other characteristics of the pattern.

Different Kinds ..........

You can also choose between circular needles and straight needles. Some people prefer circular needles because they are more comfortable to use and you can knit both in the round or back and forth like straight needles. You can find circular knitting needles, double point knitting needles and also single pointed knitting needles made of different materials such as steel, wood or bamboo. There are also different types of knitting needles like Addi knitting needles, Clover knitting needles, Misc knitting needles, Crystal Palace, Rosewood and HiyaHiya

9:20 PM | Labels: Knitting

9:19 PM | Labels: Knitting

9:18 PM | Labels: Knitting

9:05 PM | Labels: Quilting

There are many intricacies when it comes to learning how to quilt online. It is wise to start with a very basic idea and expand those ideas as you improve in your quilting skills. With a little bit of practice and some devotion, depending on the time you have to devote, you can create a well made quilt within a week or so.

Reading Patterns

One of the first things that you'll want to learn about is how to read a pattern from a pattern book. The best way to do this is purchase a book that has been designed for beginners. This type of quilting book will take more space of the book to carefully explain terminology that is used with quilting. There will also be a guide to any abbreviations that are used in quilting patterns. If you carefully study this book and perhaps create your first quilt from this book, it will be easier to read and follow other patterns that may be more difficult.

Making Color Choices

Having a basic knowledge of a color wheel will help greatly in choosing the colors that you will use in your quilt. A color wheel will help you understand the way that colors can work together with slight variations in hue. It will also show how colors can contrast nicely in a piece of work. A 'cool' color can work as a contrasting element to a 'warm' color in a quilt.

Blocking And Pressing Material

When your color choices have been made and you're beginning to understand a simple pattern, you will need to block and press your fabric. As most fabrics are cotton, it may not be a bad idea to wash your fabric before you set to cutting it into the squares that will eventually make the quilt. This will ensure that any shrinking the fabric will do will already have been done. Once this has been done, you will want to 'outline' your quilt by placing your material where you believe it should be and then pressing them down to make sure the size is correct and will still match out when it is sewn.

Batting And Sewing

You will add batting to your fabric squares before you sew them together. This is what will create the 'quilted' or cozy feeling once the quilt is made. Your fabric squares will be filled with batting and you will sew them together either by hand or with a sewing machine. Once this part is completed, the quilt is nearly finished.

Binding

The final step when learning to quilt is binding the edges of it. At this point it has been sewn together, but the sewn edges of the quilt are exposed. A binding can be created out of most any material. Its purpose is to cover and add a finishing touch around the edges of the quilt. It will surround the remaining exposed edges and be sewn on to those edges of the quilt.

9:02 PM | Labels: Quilting

Selecting fabric for your quilting projects is one of the best things about being a quilter. With such a variety in colors, textures, patterns and finishes, the quilter has an enormous fabric palette to choose from.

Art quilters particularly benefit from the wide variety of fabrics available, and cotton fabric, whilst being the quilter's favorite, is no longer the only fabric of choice. Beautiful silks, velvets, sheers and decorative fabrics all vie for attention in the eyes of an art quilter.

Quality Counts

When choosing quilting fabrics, particularly cottons, quality is something that is not always considered, so it is worth mentioning that not all fabrics are created equal.

Quality quilting fabrics go through a finishing process that requires many steps in order to achieve a vivid color, soft hand and ensure colorfastness. The quality of the base fabric and the number of steps it takes to complete the process all contribute to the more expensive price.

Discount quilting fabrics, on the other hand, start with a lesser quality base fabric and leave out a couple of these processing steps. This results in fabric that has a lower thread count, a stiff hand, and is prone to color run and fading.

Whilst the savings to your pocket may be significant, using less expensive fabric on a family heirloom project is not recommended.

Thread Count

Thread count also contributes to the level of quality of quilting fabric.

Discount quilting fabric generally has a lesser thread count (approx 60 x 60) than quilting shop fabrics (approx 78 x78). A fabric with a smaller thread count will have a higher shrinkage rate and this is important to remember if you are mixing fabrics purchased from different sources and intend to wash the finished project. These fabrics should then be pre-washed.

Fabrics with a high thread count (100 x 100 plus), such as batiks and some PFD (prepared for dyeing) fabrics, have a fine, smooth finish, but are not recommended for hand quilting or sewing because of the tight weave. Tightly woven fabrics can also contribute to problems when machine quilting, and a machine needle with a sharp point, such as a quilting needle, is recommended.

To Pre-Wash or Not to Pre-Wash

The debate over the pre-washing of quilting fabric goes on.

As a general rule of thumb, if it is unlikely that the quilt will never be washed, such as an art quilt, pre-washing your fabric is not necessary.

However if your finished project is utilitarian and will require washing, pre-washing quilting fabric is always a good idea in order to prevent colors running and also to prevent problems with different shrinkage rates.

Difficult Fabrics

Just as there are difficult quilting threads, certain types of fabrics can also be difficult to work with. Fabrics such as sheers, velvets and silks all present challenges, as they can easily slip and slide out of position.

Luckily, modern sewing and quilting machines come equipped with specialty feet to deal with these finicky fabrics and an inbuilt even feed foot, if you have this feature on your machine, is one of the best feet to use when working with specialty fabrics.

As art quilters, we are fortunate to not be restricted in our use of these wonderful fabrics. It's part of what makes art quilting so much fun

8:54 PM | Labels: Quilting

Art quilters have never had it so good with the variety of machine quilting thread that is available to them these days.

Basic Cotton

Cotton thread, originally the quilters' choice of thread, is now available in a wide variety of colors and weights, with Egyptian cotton particularly, making a huge statement.

And for machine quilters, whilst cotton thread is still a favorite, it now gets to compete alongside other beautiful and tantalizing quilting threads made of polyester, rayon and metallic.

Price and Quality

Machine quilting thread can be expensive, but cheaper threads will add little to the end result of your project, can sometimes contribute to poor sewing machine performance, and if your project is to be functional such as a lap or bed quilt, it will certainly shorten its lifespan.

Poor quality threads will also produce poor results:

• Short staple cotton threads tend to throw off a lot of lint which not only clogs your bobbin area, but can get caught up in the thread itself and result in "bumps" in the stitching line.
• Polyester, rayon and metallic threads can also suffer from poor quality and result in weak thread that breaks and shreds easily. Sometimes it is not the fault of your machine or needle, sometimes it is just simply "bad" thread.

Remember also, thread deteriorates over time and becomes brittle and loses strength. So your mother's collection of old thread, whilst maybe having some sentimental value, is not going to guarantee you a beautiful finish or trouble-free sewing.

Personality Clashes

Learning to work with your threads is important, and when you work with threads long enough particlarly when machine quilting, you begin to notice that each brand and type of thread has its own little personality.

Some threads like a vertical spool and some threads prefer a horizontal spool. Monofilament thread sometimes prefers rolling around in a cup and metallic thread can often act kinky and needs taming with a net.

Understanding that your sewing machine is often not to blame when thread issues occur will go a long way toward a better relationship between you and your machine, and taking time to do a stitch and tension test before you begin on your project will alleviate a lot of anxiety.

Don't throw it out

Old, finicky or poor quality thread can still be put to use, so never throw it out.

• It may be quite suitable for the back of a project
• Consider using it in your bobbin for bobbin work
• Snip it up, sandwich it between two layers of sheer fabric and use it to make "thread fabric"

Hand quilting thread - a word of warning

Some hand quilting threads have a wax coating which allows the hand quilter to easily work with the thread. These types of threads however, are not good for your sewing machine as it is possible for the wax coating to create slippage through the tension discs causing tension problems with your stitching. Normally the thread label will state if the thread is coated, so make sure you read the label if using hand quilting thread in your machine.

8:51 PM | Labels: Quilting

it starts with the cravings ...

For those of us who crave inspiration, Quilting Arts Magazine is designed to provide just that and more.

As textile and quilt artists, our muse is often demanding and adventurous. She is always looking over our shoulder, and never more so than when we settle down with a cup of coffee, pull out our latest copy of Quilting Arts Magazine and settle down for a pleasurable hour or two with our favorite publication.

... then there's the frenzy

The articles in the magazine are designed to inspire, whet our appetite for the unusual, and drive us into a frenzy of creative activity.

Articles on using Angelina fibers will have us daydreaming about butterfly wings and glittery things. Stories about fabric dyeing offer us the opportunity to shroud our sewing room in luscious multi-colored streamers of rainbows. Trading cards and little inchies are suddenly dancing across our vision, mesmerizing and tantalizing.

... then the call to action

And suddenly our muse is called to action. Slowly she drags us to the nearest computer and inexplicably we find ourselves online with our favorite quilting arts vendor, adding stuff to the shopping cart - stuff we can barely pronounce but it sounds intriguing, and then adding more stuff because the color is captivating, and yet more stuff because maybe we'll find a use for it somewhere, someday.

By now, of course, we have our own credit card dedicated to our obsession of the quilting arts and the number is retained in memory from so many similar expeditions. As we click the final checkout button, we let out a sigh of anticipation, stare out the window and wait for the postman to deliver our parcel.

Then our muse, smirking and fulfilled, slinks away to the corner to patiently wait for the next opportunity to pounce; slyly hoping that the next issue of Quilting Arts Magazine is but a short mail delivery away.

recovery ?

As we slowly recover from our muse-induced hypnotic state and our eyes finally manage to focus on the receipt we are holding in our hands, realization slowly dawns ... uh, oh. What the heck did I just order? And how much of it? And it cost ... what?

Perspiration forms on our brow and our hearts start to race as our mind tries to calculate how we're going to pay for all this. Well we have at least a month to worry about that before the visa bill comes in. Let's just hope our next issue of Quilting Arts Magazine doesn't arrive before the visa bill does, otherwise we really will be in trouble.

And where the heck did that muse suddenly disappear to? Strange how that happens.

8:49 PM | Labels: Quilting

There's something comforting about a puff quilt. Maybe it's the little pillows that make up the top that attract us to them. Maybe it's the extra layer of stuffing that makes them so soft and fun to curl up in. Whatever the reason, you can enjoy making one of your very own.

Puff Quilts are very easy to make. You construct "puffs" or "biscuits" of fabric squares, one at a time, and then join them together to make a whole. Usually no added backing or finish quilting is required.

A good size for each puff is between 3 and 6 inches square. For uniformity, select a "backing" fabric to use as one side of each puff. You will also need a lot of cotton or poly fiberfill, or leftover scraps of batting to use as stuffing.

The simplest method for making a puff quilt is to take two squares of the same size, place them with their right sides together, and sew around the edges as if you were making a little pillow - because that is exactly what you are doing. The pieces don't even have to be squares. You can use rectangles or circles if you want. Then, turn the puff inside out, stuff it loosely, and whip stitch the open edge. You now have your first puff! Make a few hundred more puffs, and whip stitch them together along their edges to make the top. Arrange them in checkerboard style, in concentric rings of color, or in a random pattern.

The second method is a little more involved. You still cut two squares for each puff, but with this method you make one about 1.5 inches larger than the other. Place them with their right sides together, with the larger square on top. Gather the edges of the larger square and pin them in place over the smaller square so that the two can be sewn together. You will need to take pleats in each side in order to take up the extra 1.5 inches. Two pleats are probably enough, and you should make them near the middle of the square. This method gives you a little more volume to puff up when it is completed. Sew around the edges and leave an opening for turning it right side out. It might help to sew up one pleat on the open side, because sewing two shut by hand can be a bit tricky. Stuff your biscuit and form any remaining fabric into the second pleat. Sew shut by hand. You will have a thicker puff with a flat bottom. Join the puffs to each other with whip stitching.

For a more finished look, try adding a backing layer to the puff quilt. If you do this you will need to add a binding and either quilt along the lines between the puffs, or tie off each corner to hold the backing on. It is not necessary to add another layer of batting under the puffs.

8:44 PM | Labels: Quilting

…creating with style, stitching with ease.

Besides the visual and tactile appeal of this age-old craft, the real beauty of quilting for home-sewer lies in its simplicity. You need minimal special equipment (most importantly an appetite for fabric and creativity!) to produce fabulous, time-honored results.

Getting Started

A quilt is a “fabric sandwich” comprised of two layers of fabric (top and backing) filled with batting and held together with stitches (the quilting). The quilt top usually is pieced or appliquéd; the backing is typically a solid fabric; the batting can be lofty or dense; and the quilting stitches are produced by hand or machine. The basics presented here will give you a foundation and confidence to try your hand at this treasured craft. For inspiration and more detailed technical direction, look to the many quilting books and magazines on the market today, hands-on classes, quilting friends and your local quilter’s guild. Most of the materials you’ll need to get started are already in the sewing room (needles, pins, thread, scissors, marking tools, beeswax, measuring tools, thimble, fabric scraps and batting).

Paintings In Fabric, Collages of Color

Today’s quilting fabrics are many and varied: cotton, cotton/polyester, silk, velvet, satin, linen, denim, corduroy. 100% Cotton is often favored by quilters because of it’s special qualities. It’s strong when wet, creases easily, absorbs moisture, wears well and is available in a wide range of colors and prints. The most popular cottons: broadcloth, calico, poplin, chintz and polished cotton.

• Check fabrics for colorfastness: For washable fabrics, soak each fabric individually in very warm water for 15 minutes; swish and remove. If water discolors, repeat, adding cup of vinegar. Still not colorfast? It’s best to choose another fabric, rather than jeopardize color-bleed on your finished quilt.
• Preshrink fabrics, using the same method you’ll use to clean the finished quilt. Fabrics often shrink; if not dealt with at this stage, the finished quilt will have puckered seams after cleaning.
• Damp-dry and press each fabric.
• Look for fabrics designed specifically for quilt backing in widths up to 108”.
• Choose batting based on the loft (thickness), which determines the warmth or springiness of quilt.
• Chose fabric colors and designs that you love and want to live with:
• Purchase ¼ yard cuts of each fabric and make a few test blocks.
• Mix fabrics: large- and small-scale prints; solids and print; lights, mediums and darks of the same color.
• Incorporate accent colors for unexpected spark.
• Trust yourself and have fun. You know the colors and prints that put a smile on your face.

Calculating Yardage Requirements

Although seemingly tricky, you’ll learn with experience to turn the process of fabric estimation into the art of fabric guess-timation. As a beginner, always overestimate.

• First determine the finished size of your quilt (there are no standards). This is the approximate size you’ll need for the quilt backing and batting.

• Yardage required for the quilt top depends on the design. To estimate yardage: Examine the pattern; measure the pieces in one block, adding 1⁄4” to each and noting the quantity of each color; then multiply this number by the number of blocks in the quilt.

• Measure sashing strips and ¼ inch to each side of each. Multiply by the number of strips.

Quick Cuts

^{TIP Take time when cutting to ensure extreme accuracy for piecing}

• Quilting pieces can be cut quickly and most accurately using a rotary cutter, cutting mat and clear plastic ruler.

• Fold the fabric in half crosswise, selvages matching. Hold the selvage edge, letting the fold hang free; shift one side of the fabric until the fold hangs straight. This foldline is the straight of grain.

• Place the fold along a gridline on the cutting mat. Trim across the fabric, taking care not to move the fabric. After every few cuts, check to be sure the cut edge is still at a 90-degree angle to the straight-grain fold.

• Cut off selvages and discard. They don’t shrink uniformly, which can wreak havoc in the finished quilt. Cut all pieces for blocks, sashing and binding on the crosswise grain unless otherwise specified.

• Cut sashing and binding strips after completing the quilt top to ensure accurate measurements.

• Cut squares and rectangles from strips (multiple layers if desired). Cut triangles from squares by cutting diagonally.

Piece Makers

Most quilt tops are pieced from small fabric shapes. Beginners should choose a simple geometric, such as a rectangle or square. Cut from different fabric colors or prints, the same shape is pieced to create a block (pieced fabric square.) Several blocks will be sewn together for the quilt top. Other shape options include triangles, diamonds and curved shapes, all of which are more difficult to construct. The number of possible combinations for making blocks is unlimited!

Use 1⁄4” seam allowances and stitch accurately so all pieces fit together exactly. Press as you piece, pressing seam allowances to one side toward the darker fabric. On bias edges, finger-press, as pressing with an iron can distort the grain.

Chain-piece by stitching multiple units together without backstitching or stopping between each. Use a 15-stitches-per-inch stitch length, shortening it at the beginning and end of each unit in lieu of backstitching.

Artful Appliqué

More intricate curved shapes are usually machine- or hand-appliquéd onto flat fabric or onto pieced squares. Use tear-away stabilizer under the backing fabric to prevent puckering.

Blind stitch, blanket stitch or satin stitch to secure them. Press appliquéd areas from the wrong side only. For machine appliqué, decrease the needle thread tension and use bobbin thread that matches the quilt top.

Putting It Together

After completing the quilt top, you’re ready for layering, basting and quilting.

• Cut the batting and quilt backing so they extend 2” to 4” beyond the quilt top on all sides. If the backing must be pieced, press seams open. Allow polyester batting to lie flat and relax for several hours before cutting.

• Press the quilt top and backing separately, and mark quilting lines on the quilt top right side before layering. Pin-mark the center of each edge of the top, bat and back.

• Wrong side up, tape the backing to a large flat surface (floor or table), making sure it’s smooth and taut, not stretched.

• Place the batting on the backing, then the quilt top (right side up on the batting, matching pin-marks. Smooth, but don’t stretch, pinning in place.

• Beginning at the center and working toward the edges, baste a starburst to secure the layers together.

• Pin-baste one quarter of the quilt at a time, using 1” rustproof safety pins. Pin every 2” to 3” in parallel rows spaced 4” to 6” apart (illustration 2). Or thread-baste, using white cotton thread (avoid darks, which can leave a colored residue on the fabric), a large milliner’s needle and a long running stitch. (illustration 3).

• Do not baste on drawn quilting lines or on piecing seams.

• Untape the backing, then fold the raw edges over the batting and pin to the quilt top. This prevents raw edges from raveling and batting from catching on things during quilting.

Time to Quilt

TIP: Refine your quilting stitch, machine- or hand-produced, as exquisite quilting can elevate even the most modest quilt from mediocre to magnificent.

Quilting holds the “fabric sandwich” layers together, while adding dimension and surface interest to the quilt.

Plan the quilting sequence before beginning. Generally, begin anchoring the quilt horizontally and vertically, then anchor any borders. This stabilizes the layers. Next stitch along any sashing strips or between blocks, starting at the center and then working out. Finally, Quilt within the blocks and borders.

For machine quilting:

• If possible, use an even-feed presser foot to avoid puckering.

• Use a size 11/80 or 14/90 needle.

• Use 100% cotton thread or fine monofilament nylon thread, opting for the same color throughout.

• Use a stitch length of 15 stitches per inch.

• Stitch continuously with as few starts and stops as possible.

• Continually check for tucks in the backing by feeling through the layers in front of the needle. Ease in excess fabric before it reaches the needle.

• Roll one or both sides of the quilt into a cylinder that will fit on the machine bed and sewing surface; secure with pins. Unroll as you quilt different sections.

Beginners should opt for machine-guided quilting (machine dogs active) until they are more comfortable and experienced handling and manipulating so many layers. Free-motion quilting (feed dogs covered or dropped) requires the quilter to advance the fabric in a steady rhythm, following the quilting design lines, and is used to quilt designs with sharp turns and intricate curves.

Stitch-in-the-ditch quilting is the easiest and most common method, giving definition to blocks, boarders, and sashing Outline quilting, stitching ¼” from the seam lines to emphasize designs, and channel quilting, stitching in evenly spaced horizontal, vertical or diagonal lines.

For hand quilting

• Use a size 7 or 8 betweens needle.

• Use approximately 24” of thread (100 percent cotton is best). Longer lengths will cause tangling frustrations.

• Use small, uniform running stitches that go through all thicknesses. Take two to six stitches, if possible before pulling the thread through.

• Keep an even tension, pulling slightly taut for proper dimension

• Do not backstitch. Instead, bury a knot at the beginning and end of each thread length.

Finishing Touches

Finish quilt edges with a mock binding (fold the backing fabric over the quilt top raw edges and edge stitch in place) or double binding (use a separate strip of straight-grain binding fabric cut wide enough to make two layers for a durable edge).

8:43 PM | Labels: Quilting

8:43 PM | Labels: Quilting

8:42 PM | Labels: Quilting

8:40 PM | Labels: Sewing

Discover how to sew a spa wrap or beach cover-up with this simple sewing lesson.

Spa wraps are great gift ideas or bazaar items, too.

Sew spa wraps for all the men, women and children in your family. Everyone needs one. Use for after the shower, bath, or when you do your hair or at the spa or pool or the beach.

Spa wraps have elasticized tops that can be worn above the bust or at the waist.

Sewing a spa wrap is a quick and easy sewing project. All you need is a beach towel, approximately 1-1/4 yards of 1 inch to 1-1/4 inch wide sport sew through elastic and about 6 inches of hook and loop tape or large snaps.

Here is the how to sew instructions.

First of all, make a decision about what you want to use to sew the spa wrap. Colorful beach towels are great to use as well as fabric. Your choice may be based on what size you need the spa wrap to be.

Smaller towels work well for small children.

Lighter weight towels work better than heavier ones. They aren't as bulky to sew or wear and also dry faster.

Sewing Tip: Always preshrink all fabrics including towels before you sew.

The average beach towel is about 62 inches long x 34 inches wide. Find some good bargains at your local flea market.

The length of the beach towel will generally go around most bodies with some over lap. If you need more, sew 2 towels together or add half a towel.

Cut a piece of 1 inch to 1-1/4 inch wide sturdy sport sew through elastic to be about 2/3 of the length of the towel or fabric that you are using. This depends on the stretch of the elastic.

Example: For a 62 inch long towel, cut the elastic about42 inches long.

Divide the towel and the elastic into eighths. First fold in half, then again in fourths, then again in eighths. These smaller sections are easier to handle at the sewing machine.

Pin the elastic at the eighth marks to one long edge on the wrong side of the towel.

Set your sewing machine for your largest and longest zigzag stitch.

As you stitch, stretch the elastic to fit each pinned section of the towel.

First stitch along the outer edge of the elastic and then go back and stitch along the inner edge of the elastic also stretching as you sew.

If you prefer, you can sew a lightweight fabric casing to the wrong side of the towel and insert the elastic drawing it up to fit the size you want.

Cut two strips of hook and loop tape about 3" long.

Pin the rough (hook) side of one strip to the inside edge of the overlap on top of the elastic.

Stitch around the hook tape to hold securely.

Pin the soft (loop) side of one strip to the outside edge on the right side of the underlap.

Stitch around that tape.

Now place the corresponding pieces of hook and loop tape up against the stitched in place pieces of tape.

Put the wrap on your body to help determine where to sew the corresponding pieces of tape.

Pin those pieces where they should go and unhook them from the stitched tapes. Remove the wrap.

Stitch around these tapes where you have them pinned.

WOW! You just made a spa wrap!

Now, for some designer touches, try these ideas:

Add a large pocket cut from contrasting or matching fabric or even mesh fabric on the front.

Monogram or use one of your embroidery designs on the pocket before applying it to the wrap.

You could bind the outer edges of towel with fabric to match the pocket.

If you decide to bind the outer edges of the towel, round the square corners first. It looks better and is easier to bind. See the following sewing tip to make a nice curve.

Sewing Tip: Lay a dinner plate down at the corners of the towel lining up the edges of the plate with the edges of the towel. Draw the outer curve of the plate to get a very nice even curve.

If you are using a plain towel, add a fun embroidery design using instructions to embroider on terry cloth to decorate your wrap.

Applique a unique design on the spa wrap.

If you prefer not to use hook and loop tape, use very large snaps or heavy duty gripper snaps to hold the wrap closed.

You are the designer! Have fun with it!

8:35 PM | Labels: Sewing

Buttons provides detailed information on Buttons, How To Sew A Button, Sewing Buttons, Antique Buttons and more. Buttons is affiliated with Rubber Wristbands

8:33 PM | Labels: Sewing

Sewing is a great kids craft. Kids love to sew and show what they accomplished. They are very proud of their sewing projects and other creations.

Whether it is sewing or any other craft that you teach or share with your child, even if it is coloring, drawing, cutting and pasting, it is time well spent.

If you want to really spend some quality time with your kids and grandkids, turn off the TV and do some kids crafts or sew with them. It is great therapy for all ages. The added bonus is the treasured memories that you create for both of you.

Whether you are planning a kid party or homeschooling, babysitting, teach a Sunday School Class or just want to keep the kids entertained, there are a number of sewing and kid craft resources to help you be successful and make a real "hit" with the kids.

Sewing and kids crafts are a sure-fired way to bond with your kids. Sew or make something together today! Have fun!

It just makes sense!

8:28 PM | Labels: Sewing

When looking at machines for purchase, it is important to sew on the
machine yourself, in fact, you should insist on it. You should plan ahead,
and when you go to the sewing machine store, know the kind of things you
are interested in doing. Take pieces of fabric, or whatever you plan to sew
on. Do not let the sales rep do the sewing on your fabrics.

1) Explain to the sales rep what you are interested in, what the problems
are with your current machine (if any?).

2) If the sales rep immediately takes to the most expensive machine in the
store and this was not your intent, be firm and insist upon seeing a
machine more in your price range. You may well end purchasing a machine
that is outside your price range, but that should be your decision and not
that of the sales rep.

3) Let the sales rep give you a demonstration, make sure that when you sit
down you can see what the sales rep is doing. Sometimes the sales reps have
a canned demonstration and they go to fast, they make it flashy and
impressive, but the demo may be more technique rather than what the machine
is capable of doing.

4) Ask your questions and then ask to sew on the machine yourself. If you
do not have fabric pieces, ask to test sew on real fabric, not the stiff
demo cloth that most sales reps use. Your own swatches are better because,
you can carry the same fabric around to the different shops, and truly have
an accurate comparison.

5) If you try something on a fabric (your own) and it does not work
properly, for example using a machine with a lot of embroidery stitches,
you generally have to stiffen the fabric, use a tear-away type of product.
Decorative stitches generally look nicer using 100% cotton thread and not
necessarily as nice using cotton-wrapped thread. Check out the thread.

6) Contrary to what a sales rep may say, swear to, etc. THERE IS NO SUCH
THING AS A MACHINE THAT HAS AN AUTOMATIC TENSION ADJUSTMENT.
Remember, when using a regular sewing machine (as opposed to a serger)
there is thread on top of the seam (your top thread - when threaded goes
through tension system of some kind) and the bobbin thread. In machines
with a bobbin case, the tension is still adjusted by adjusting that
little bitty screw on the side of the bobbin, there is no one, etc. that
jumps out and automatically adjusts this little screw. You must. The
machines without a bobbin case (so-called drop-in bobbins), also have a
tension adjusting device. There may be some "automatic" mechanism to
adjust the top tension.

7) The stitching quality of a particular machine depends on a number of
things (a) the machine, (b) needles, (c) thread, (d) tension, (e) sewing
technique, and (f) the operator. All of these items are important. A good
machine is wonderful and can make sewing more pleasurable. You can hear it
and see the results, between a good machine and not so good machine.

8) If you are looking at the high end machine, for example Elna or Pfaff
(there are the two machines I own, so biased), be aware that both companies
have a line of machines that are of a different quality than there top
line. Top line of Elna is made in Switzerland, top line of Pfaff is
Germany. The other line is either made in Japan or China (not that these
are necessarily bad, but they are not the top of the line, the line that
gives the brand its reputation). For example, New Home is a Japanese built
machine, they may have other lines that are built in either Taiwan or
Korea. When it comes to sergers by these companies, it is most likely their
sergers are made in either Japan or Germany/Switzerland, but for sergers,
this is okay. The original home-use sergers came from Japan, they had the
original technology.

8:26 PM | Labels: Sewing

The sewing machine has been around for more than two hundred years now and is still as popular today. Most households have a sewing machine, whether it’s for ornamental use or for taking care of those sewing chores.

The sewing machine was invented to help join fabric together using thread in order to make clothes. In order to create stitches, which are used to join pieces of fabric together, these machines take two threads and join them together within the machine and put them through the fabric.

There are many different model sewing machines available today and many of these can produce a great variety of both plain and patterned stitches that include cross stitch, chain stitch, and zig zag stitching. Regular sewing machines use what is called a lockstitch. This is a stitch that is created using two threads. Older model sewing machines have been known to use chain stitches and sergers.

There are hundreds of models of sewing machines and they all vary considerable in both price and performance. The more expensive models are sophisticated electronic machines that are also computerized. Even with all this technology however, these machines still work based on one main principle, and that is the loop stitching system.

Sewing machines consist of a number of different components and these include the electric motor, the spool holder, the tension disc, the drive wheel, the bobbin holder, the needle, and the foot pedal. Of course these are only the basic components, there are many more. The motor on sewing machines is controlled by the foot pedal and this lets the user vary the speed they require when sewing.

Like most devices, sewing machines do take a little bit of practice and patience especially when it comes to threading your machine. Perseverance however does have its rewards and in no time you could be mastering the art of sewing and creating your own garments.

8:24 PM | Labels: Sewing

You have the ability to control your looks if you know how to enjoy sewing. A person who sews well doesn’t worry about the fashion and its influences. They can find the right fit of clothe for themselves in the color of their choice. You need not worry that the color you like is not available in the market. Moreover there is no necessity to restrict yourself to a particular style. You should know that the clothes worn in the old movies are being revived by the youngsters and some of the clothes worn in these movies are evergreen and will not be out of date at any time. Can we say them as future-proof? Some of the modern movies like Dick Tracy and Titanic bring the old classics to this modern day.

With the help of the internet you can easily find the old patterns that are used in the classic clothes. It is easy to make vintage clothes using the vintage sewing patterns.

Why you should go for the vintage?

You can use the vintage sewing pattern so that you are accurate in the time for that pattern. Some of the vintage designs include patterns that are modern like zippers. These patterns change the look of the old clothes. The attitudes and comments at the time of the styles are included in the vintage sewing pattern. For different styles and ages there are many be some accessories that are recommended. References to the Hollywood or Paris or the queen of society would be there that were popular at the time of the style that you adopt.

Using a vintage sewing pattern adds fun. This is one of the reasons for using that pattern. Find a vintage sewing pattern in original and good condition is very hard. However there are methods available to copy the vintage sewing pattern so that the vintage sewing pattern is available to you at affordable cost. By having a copy you have access to the same pattern, the instructions and the comments. With that you can add your modern touches to that pattern with confidence.

Problems with the vintage patterns

Of course nothing comes without a problem and so is the vintage sewing pattern. Changes to the pattern have to be made so that you can use the modern fabrics that are available in the market. You may need to alter the pattern to fit the modern figure. If the instructions are missing then it poses you a challenge to get the exact pattern needed. Due to these reasons the vintage sewing pattern should be reserved for the experienced people rather than the adventurous beginner in design. Sometimes adventures pay off. So you can give it a go even if you think it is a little bit difficult for you.

8:23 PM | Labels: Sewing

Koala cabinets for sewing machines are used by many people around the world who like the nice, yet functional design of these sewing machine cabinets. The Koala sewing machine cabinets are stylish, durable and functional, which is why people who enjoy sewing look for the Koala name when they are buying sewing machine cabinets.

Unlike other cabinets, Koala cabinets were designed with the sewer in mind. Every aspect of these cabinets is geared towards making sewing more efficient and easier, while also being efficient and minimizing wasted space. Available in a number of different styles and colors, the Koala cabinets are among the most sought after.

One of the most liked features of these cabinets is the fact that they have lift-off doors which make them easy to remove when you need the ability to move quickly around your space without the fear of bashing your legs against the opened doors. These cabinets are also on rollers which make them easy to move around your workspace as you need to.

Everything from the work surface to the draw space to the overall design and layout of these cabinets were clearly designed with efficiency in mind. You can keep your workspace neat and clean with these great cabinets while not breaking your budget to do so.

Super easy to set up, use and maintain, the Koala sewing machine cabinets are sure to make you love spending time in front of the sewing machine. Consumers looking for these great cabinets find the best selection and pricing online and that is why there is a complete assortment of these cabinets for you to choose from.

Retailers simply cannot stock these cabinets and keep the price down because of high overhead charges. Internet retailers have significantly less overhead and therefore can pass those savings along to consumers while also offering a wider selection of Koala cabinets and related accessories. You can choose the design and color you need to make your workspace neat, tidy and efficient. Koala cabinets are among the most popular in the industry.

You can keep your home or workspace looking great yet remaining highly functional when you invest in great Koala cabinets. For the serious sewer and the amateur sewer alike, the Koala cabinets are a must have. Choose the right cabinet for your needs and enjoy spending time with your favorite sewing machine.

8:18 PM | Labels: Sewing

Sewing machines today are very well-built machines. They will usually last for years without much trouble. When trouble does arise, only a few sewing machine parts will require replacement. Case in point is the myriad of antique sewing machines that are still in use today. Although they are still capable of doing the job, replacement sewing machine parts are becoming harder to come by, especially if the original manufacturer is no longer in business. In most cases, the original manufacturer is the best source for sewing machine parts. However, there are now companies whose specialty is making sewing machine parts. A good machine will last a lifetime.

Sewing machines are a mixture of old-time form and durability with modern electronics. Most parts need only a regular schedule of maintenance. Some parts will require replacement more frequently, such as belts, needles, and light bulbs. These smaller parts are easily replaced and can be found at many sewing-oriented retailers. When you buy replacement parts, you can either buy them from the original manufacturer or buy universal parts which fit many brands of sewing machines.

Some replacement parts are not as easy to find or replace. For example, bobbins, feet attachments, and needle plates can only be found from a sewing machine shop or dealer. To ensure that the replacement parts fit your particular sewing machine, the dealer or sewing machine shop will need the specific model and part number.

Like an automobile, many sewing machines can be retrofitted with after-market parts to add to its functionality. New sewing machines usually come with basic accessories, such as a zipper foot or a pressure foot. Specialized jobs such as quilting or ruffles can be done by purchasing an add-on attachment from the dealer. When buying after-market parts, make sure that the accessories are made to fit your particular make and model of sewing machine. Typically, after-market attachments made by a manufacturer are limited to their specific brand.

If you have one of the more popular brands, such as Singer, you can find dedicated suppliers or repair shops whose sole function is to sell and service that one particular brand. They can also help you to maintain your sewing machine. Maintenance is key to a long lasting machine. You can search the internet for suppliers of parts on the famous name brand and you will be surprised at the fact that there still are people who sevice the old machines

7:26 PM | Labels: Embroidery

What is Embroidery?

Embroidery is decorative needlework used on clothing and other textiles. The word embroidery may come from two different places, one a Frankish word meaning braid, the other a Germanic word meaning border or edge. There are many different kinds of embroidery in the world and there is no clear concept of who may have done the first embroidery in the world. An art form with a long history in almost every culture the many styles and variations that have been created throughout the years are not surprising. However, most kinds of embroidery fall into one of two main categories.

Two Main Categories of Embroidery

There are two main categories of embroidery. The first, known as counted-thread embroidery includes styles like cross-stitch and needlepoint. All counted-thread embroidery is made by counting the individual threads of the canvas being embroidered when placing a stitch. Even textured fabrics like cotton or linen are usually used along with cotton embroidery floss to reproduce grid like patterns and pictures.

The second kind is known as free embroidery. Unlike counted-thread embroidery, free embroidery does not pay attention to the individual threads of the canvas. Instead it is able to spray freely across fabric, allowing for more realistic and less constrained designs. Chinese embroidery is an example of free embroidery.

Embroidery Embellishments

There are many different kinds of decorative stitches. Some of the most commonly used stitches are the straight stitch, the cross stitch and the knot stitch.

A straight stitch goes up and down through fabric and will tend to move in a single direction. Cross stitching is usually done by creating a series of diagonal lines going one way and then going back along the line to create turn each angled stitch into an individual x.

Knot stitches are made by wrapping thread around a needle while it moves through the fabric. The result is a tiny nub on the upper side of the fabric. It is used frequently as the center point of a flower.

Intricate embroidery has long been a sign of wealth. The number of jewels and decorations on individual’s apparel is a time-honored sign of power and respectability. Embroidery can be done with a wide range of textiles and can be embellished with almost any material. Beads, charms and other ornaments made of glass, metal, plastic and wooden can all be incorporated into embroidery. There are practically an unlimited number of ways to create embroidery and just as many accent pieces can be used for additional embellishments.

Art or Craft

Creating beautiful embroidery is both a handcraft and an art. Many kinds of embroidery can be done well after only a little practice. Many areas in the world use embroidery styles that are distinct to their locale. A study of the many kinds of embroidery shows how time and fashion has created new styles of embroidery to take advantage of modern innovations. While there are some people who use complex embroidery machines to speed up the process of embroidery, the age-old hobby will always be of interest and the finest results of the art will always be in demand. Supplies for most kinds of embroidery are easy to find at both craft supplies and fabric stores.

7:25 PM | Labels: Embroidery

The art of embroidery was practiced many centuries ago and is still practiced today. It would be highly unlikely that today's collector would be able to find or purchase much that was made prior to 1650, simply due to lack of preservation of such works. If one was to locate such an antique piece, it would be very expensive, due to its rarity.

Antique embroidery items of this nature can still be seen in museum-type settings or private collections. As one might expect time will have taken its toll on the piece.

English embroidery work from the Middle Ages has become well sought after throughout the world. What pieces remain in museums and private collections give good examples, and show just how this century-old hand embroidery work earned its reputation for being the finest work ever produced.

The very early examples of English embroidery were done on silk panels, of which most were white in color using silk thread to compose the design. Works were often designed around carved pieces, such as carved heads, faces, hands, and often shoes, which were then incorporated into the piece. The fine embroidery would fill in the clothing and background setting. These fine pieces of needle art would then be framed or perhaps inset into the top of a box.

In the 17th century one common stitch used in English embroidery was the straightforward tent stitch, embroidered onto wool or silk or both, with a canvas backing. Due to the durability of the canvas, there are more surviving examples of this kind of embroidery. In many cases, these works still retain the same brilliance of color now as they did centuries before. This same type of embroidery is still being practiced today, due to the fact that it can endure time without noticeable damage.

The eighteenth-century found many furniture manufactures incorporating English embroidery onto many types of furniture pieces, greatly increasing the value of a piece if present. The later half of the 18th century brought with it the embroidery picture. It was much in vogue to have such a piece in ones home. The pictures came in many sizes and frame shapes. As a rule, silk fabric and silk thread were used in these wonderful pieces of art. For added embellishment, many of these pictures were also touched up with watercolor paint. Such artifacts can still be found today. Unfortunately, this type of work did not wear well over time, and you would be hard-pressed to find one that does not show signs of fading. Even so, a picture of this nature would still have character and charm.

I would be remise if I did not mention the sampler. The sampler began as a simple reference panel. Whereas a pattern was developed, and colors experimented with, to come up with a desired design. In the eighteenth century it had become an exercise for children's lessons. Children were instructed to embroider letters of the alphabet, mottoes, verses, and texts. They also would have signed and dated their handiwork. Wonderful maps were also produced in this manner.

During the nineteenth century, samplers were designed to include vivid colors, and subject matter ranged from copies of famous art works to Biblical themes. Heavier threads such as wool were also used, and larger stitches were incorporated into the designs.

The nineteenth century also revived the art of using beadwork in the embroidered piece. Queen Victoria - the reigning Queen of England - took a great liking to embellishing banners, fire screens, and footstool coverings with beads.

Many fine examples of Victorian embroidery can still be found in antique markets today, which as a rule are in pretty good condition.

The wonderful art of embroidery is still very popular today. There are many talented artisans that design and produce beautiful pieces. I am sure many of these artistic creations will become the well sought-after antiques of tomorrow.

7:20 PM | Labels: Embroidery

What is embroidery? Do you know embroidery? Do you want to learn or do you know the basics but want to learn more? There is so much out there to learn about this craft. Congratulate yourself for taking the first step.

Embroidery is a type of needle work that has grown quite a bit over the years into a popular hobby for many people. It is really not hard at all to learn embroidery. In fact, some people find it much easier than other types of needlework (such as crochet). You can work from a pattern that will help you make many great designs and decorations.

If you want to learn embroidery, there are many books and magazines and even websites out there to help. It is a craft that can usually be learned by looking at directions in a book. If you know someone in person that also does embroidery, this can be very helpful to you for them to show you in person. It can be especially helpful if you find a place that you get “stuck” or need some extra help to figure it out.

When you learnt the basics of embroidery, you will probably want to try more and more. You may want to try harder designs. The best method is to get your hands on as many patterns you like and can find. There are pattern books available at retail and craft stores. You can also find many patterns online.

The great thing about the internet is that you can find many embroidery patterns online for free. You can also find many sites dedicated to the topic that will offer tips and advice. These sites are a great way to meet other people, talk to people about your hobby and learn more and the things you like to do.

What is embroidery? Do you know embroidery? Do you want to learn or do you know the basics but want to learn more? There is so much out there to learn about this craft. Congratulate yourself for taking the first step.

Embroidery is a type of needle work that has grown quite a bit over the years into a popular hobby for many people. It is really not hard at all to learn embroidery. In fact, some people find it much easier than other types of needlework (such as crochet). You can work from a pattern that will help you make many great designs and decorations.

If you want to learn embroidery, there are many books and magazines and even websites out there to help. It is a craft that can usually be learned by looking at directions in a book. If you know someone in person that also does embroidery, this can be very helpful to you for them to show you in person. It can be especially helpful if you find a place that you get “stuck” or need some extra help to figure it out.

When you learnt the basics of embroidery, you will probably want to try more and more. You may want to try harder designs. The best method is to get your hands on as many patterns you like and can find. There are pattern books available at retail and craft stores. You can also find many patterns online.

The great thing about the internet is that you can find many embroidery patterns online for free. You can also find many sites dedicated to the topic that will offer tips and advice. These sites are a great way to meet other people, talk to people about your hobby and learn more and the things you like to do.

7:15 PM | Labels: Embroidery

Embroidered aprons can make unusual and charming gifts. Whatever the skill level you have, you can either make or buy an apron and embroider it to suit a friend, mother, daughter or other lucky female in your life

One of the most pleasing ways to personalize an apron that you have either bought or made is to embroider it. There are many different ways that you can embroider an apron and many different designs you can choose from.

Probably one of the most important things to remember when choosing threads to use for embroidery is to consider what the apron is going to be used for. If the apron will require frequent washing, then choose threads that will not fade as quickly and remain colorfast, therefore will remain bright in color and minimize the chances of color running into the fabric of the apron.

Once the threads have been established, then you can look for an interesting and appropriate pattern to use for your embroidery project. There are many places to look for these and one of the easiest methods to use here is the iron-on pattern. You can also trace a pattern onto the fabric or draw with pencil the outline of what you would like to embellish. You could also perhaps consider some which is done on another material and then apply this to the pattern once finished like an appliqué.

Even to put your name onto the pocket is a quaint way to personalize your apron. Another method could be to embroider the edges of the apron. You can use a brightly colored yarn to do a blanket stitch around the edge of hems, pockets, tie-backs or sleeve edges. This could be color coordinated with the fabric itself or with anything else that is embroidered onto the apron.

Embroidered aprons also make unusual and charming gifts. Whatever the skill level you have, you can either make or buy an apron and embroider it to suit a friend, mother, daughter or other lucky female in your life.

From a business standpoint the embroidered apron can enhance status in front of the customer by showing off the company name or logo. This is commonly done and only costs a little more to include the embroidery when making the initial apron purchase.

This method of advertising your business name on the apron can be beneficial in terms of tax minimalization. In most countries the placing of the business name on the work uniform will allow the company to claim reductions in tax from the rebates available, of course this does not cover all countries and states but you will find most do allow this legitimate form of tax reduction. Also the employee may be able to claim a rebate for their tax return from the laundering of work related uniforms, which in this case is the apron with an embroidered logo or name on it.

So as you can see there are many ways to use embroidery on an apron to enhance the visual appeal as well as improve the marketing aspects of the business. And don’t forget the tax implications also; why not take advantage of these enhancements whatever your motivation.
Embroidering an apron is a win win situation. Hope to see your name on an apron soon.

7:13 PM | Labels: Embroidery

Chinese embroidery,essential of traditional Chinese arts,representing Chinese silk art as Needle Painting

Chinese embroidery, known throughout the world, has a long history as a Chinese art form. Although it is difficult to pinpoint precisely when embroidery was first practiced in China, based on archaeological excavations, it can be traced back to the Shang dynasty (1600 BC~1027 BC).

China was the first country in the world to weave silk, which forms a quintessential part of Chinese embroidery. Silkworms were domesticated as early as 5,000 years ago and the production of silk threads and fabrics gave rise to the art of needlework.

In 1958, a piece of silk embroidered with a dragon and phoenix was discovered in the Chu tomb of the Warring Sates Period (475-221BC). It is the earliest piece of Chinese embroidery, ever unearthed, that is more than 2,000 years old.

There are four main styles of embroidery in China: Su, Xiang, Yue and Shu styles.

The history of Su embroidery, which is one of the most famous embroidery styles in China, has spanned more than 2,000 years, mainly due to its delicacy.

Original Chinese Embroidery is made entirely by hand. A needle is used to pull coloured threads through the background fabric on which the design, which highlights the main theme of the picture, is previously drawn. The silk is stretched on a frame instead of a loom.

Chinese embroidery requires an infinite amount of patience and skill. The stitching requires delicate abilities, which are learned by embroiderers. One thin silk thread is normally divided into up to 48 strands, each of which is barely visible to the naked eye. In other words, the ability to use silk threads and the mixture of stitching skills guarantee superb quality in the embroidered product.

In ancient China, girls were taught to embroider. A male's intelligence was judged by his technique in calligraphy whilst a female’s was judged by her needlework skills. After her engagement, a girl had to present pieces of embroidery to all the relatives and friends of her fiancé, for their critical appraisal. The purpose of this was to determine her embroidery skills. If her techniques were very developed, she would be considered to have the ability to manage the entire housekeeping, and therefore be a good wife.

Elegant embroidery was used particularly for royal members in ancient China. Chinese emperors wore embroidery on their ceremonial robes and decorated their curtains, carpets and even their bedcovers with it. Embroidery was the main product transported along the ancient Chinese "Silk Road", as it is known nowadays, to Europe.

Despite the numerous advances in recent centuries, the art of embroidery, which fully embodies the value of traditional Chinese culture, still lives on, as embroidery combines the essence of painting and calligraphy with present traditional Chinese culture. Embroidery is now used for decoration, fashion and other items in daily use

7:11 PM | Labels: Embroidery

A Patch is a small cloth badge affixed to a garment as a decoration or an insignia, as of a military, Below are steps for making good patches:-

1. Look at your original artwork/embroidery design to have an idea to get the final shape of the Patch.

2. The blank Patches available there are not in our use here. We have to do them ourself.If you want to do yourself, you have to think first about the material to be used as BASE. For some materials, different than normal digitizing settings are required like compensation, density, stitches appearance (Satin or Step/Tatami) etc.

3. Digitize the design keeping the idea of creation in your mind. You should know what type of outline you have to add, embroidered or overlocked. If the patch has to be sewn lately on the jacket and the sewing line is outside the patch, you have to add an extra line of Running stitches as a reference cutting line. This line should be about 5mm. Sometimes, the patch is overlocked at the outer line and the Resultant Patch is sewn between embroidered line and overlock.In this case, you can use the same line to overlock the patch.

4. Make a sample of your digitized file to confirm the required result. You can edit the design at this point if there is something to be edited. Make sure every aspect of the design is acceptable.

5. Set a single sheet of Base material (back attached with Fusing by Heated Roller or Ironing) on the machine parallel to no.of heads. Now, set your machine for space and direction with all the normally required settings to repeat the same stitching for the number of patches you need. You just have to check thread breakage.

6. Press the whole sheet of patches by pressing in the Roller.You can cut the sheet in maller pieces to press them with iron. If you have to make the patch Hard, fix the hardening stuff with any adhesive on the back and press with care to avoid any damage to the embroidered side.

7. If the patch has Embroidered Outline, cut along it with a good scissors and use a Soldering Iron to smooth/soften edges.

8. Overlock the patch edges if it has to be overlocked.

9. Check all the produced Patches for any Trimming or Cleaning.

10. The patches are ready for your customer or for the sewing on the jacket etc. This is the way we do Patches which is almost the same for Badges and Emblems.

7:06 PM | Labels: Embroidery

Embroidery - Types of embroidery

Embroidery is classified according to its use of the underlying foundation fabric. One classification system divides embroidery styles according to the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric:

• In free embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese embroidery.

• In counted-thread embroidery, patterns are created by making stitches over a pre-determined number of threads in the foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery requires an even-weave foundation fabric such as embroidery canvas, aida cloth, or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics. Examples include needlepoint and cross-stitch.

A second division classifies embroidery according to whether the design is stitched on top of or through the foundation fabric:

• In Surface embroidery, patterns are worked on top of the foundation fabric using decorative stitches and laid threads. Surface embroidery encompasses most free embroidery as well as some forms of counted-thread embroidery (such as cross-stitch).

• In Canvas work, threads are stitched through a fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation fabric. All canvas work is counted-thread embroidery.

7:04 PM | Labels: Embroidery

Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with designs stitched in strands of thread or yarn using a needle. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins.

Embroidery - Types of embroidery

Embroidery is classified according to its use of the underlying foundation fabric. One classification system divides embroidery styles according to the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric:

• In free embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese embroidery.

• In counted-thread embroidery, patterns are created by making stitches over a pre-determined number of threads in the foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery requires an even-weave foundation fabric such as embroidery canvas, aida cloth, or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics. Examples include needlepoint and cross-stitch.

A second division classifies embroidery according to whether the design is stitched on top of or through the foundation fabric:

• In Surface embroidery, patterns are worked on top of the foundation fabric using decorative stitches and laid threads. Surface embroidery encompasses most free embroidery as well as some forms of counted-thread embroidery (such as cross-stitch).

• In Canvas work, threads are stitched through a fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation fabric. All canvas work is counted-thread embroidery.

Embroidery - History

The origins of embroidery are lost in time, but examples survive from ancient Egypt, Iron Age Northern Europe and Song Dynasty China.

Elaborately embroidered clothing, religious objects, and household items have been a mark of wealth and status in many cultures including ancient Persia, India, Byzantium, medieval England (Opus Anglicanum or "English work"), and Baroque Europe.